Friday, 7 September 2018

6/9/18: Making trapping work - hiding it in plain sight

Tonight's session involved taking a classical element of the martial art and making it work. AS has been well documented by now, trapping works and it is used all the time. Just look at a boxing or MMA match and you will see it. It may not look traditional but it is there. Trapping, as I have stated before, is a moment. One beat in which you remove a barrier in order to hit your opponent. That's it.

The ART of trapping is immense, with huge variations and moving from trap to trap to counter to trap again. That is a game, and a really fun game. But if you want it to really WORK then you need to get out of the game mentality and into the... get this out of my way so I can thump you mentality!

As usual, we took a concept, drilled it in isolation in order to understand the mechanics, then added some randomness to it before sparring with it.

The traps:

We looked at 4 trap variations:

1) Pak and hit - slap their lead blocking hand with your rear hand (at the elbow pushing slightly down and towards them!) - follow up with a vertical fist punch (forward pressure and you only need to move their guard slightly out of the way to get the hit in)

2) Lop and hit -  reach lead hand out and pull their lead guard forward and down. with a slight step off line throw a cross (vertical or horizontal fist)

3) Inside pak and hit - slap the inside of their lead arm out of the way with your lead hand and follow with a cross.

4) Outside pak and hit - slap outside of their lead arm with rear hand and with the same hand on the half beat throw a cross (a  bit like skimming a stone over water... bounce off their arm to punch)

We also did this against a south paw stance (we stayed in right lead) the techniques are the same you just have to switch which hand is doing the pak and which is doing the punching (this also helps you to learn to do trapping against the cross.)

Tips: forward pressure, make a gap just big enough to get a hit through, very slightly moving off line if needed

We did these individually then we mixed them all up on a static partner.

We then drilled these with the partner feeding a jab (in right and left leads)... just learning to apply.

Trapping Sparring:

Sparring let us play with timing and application of trapping in motion. Timing of the trap is REALLY important. there are 3 ways you can use the trap using timing (and some of the traps are more effective in different timings)

BEFORE partner attacks - basically crashing in with your trap (I find Pak hit and Lop hit good here)
DURING partner attack - as they attack you trap their hit and respond (I find inside and outside pak good here)
AFTER partner attack - as they withdraw their attack you follow and then trap and hit (I find Pak hit and Lop hit good here)

The traps are tools to ADD to your sparring NOT something you would always do. if both of you are "trapping" at the same time there is very little sparring and it basically ends up in a clinch/grapple.

To functionalise the trap we did BOXING SPARRING - jab only. We both boxed... With all the footwork, head movement etc. that includes, but one partner was allowed to include trapping and  focus on the timing of application (amongst the single, double, triple, fast, slow, fake and really put in jabs!) while the other person did all they could to hit you! (which also forced you to box as well, make sure your hands were up etc... after all you don't need to trap at all if their hands are down!)

Essentially, we were hiding the trapping in the boxing, keeping each other honest by both throwing jabs, not "waiting" for one.

Thai pad rounds:

Just to kill us off - thank you Ian... we owe you

3x 3 min rounds

1) jab cross hook rear round kick
2) jab cross rear elbow rear knee
3) rear round kick pyramid (1, 2, 3, 2,1 repeated)

Basic knife defences:

based off of the statistically most common types of knife attack (which for your info are: the straight stab -with or without a grab by the free hand, an angle 1 slash or and angle 1 stab in ice pick grip, and a VERY occasional back hand A2, but you need to practice all angles as you don't know what hand the knife is in!)

1) off A1 - block with blade of arm and same time hit to throat. twist knife arm across you (keeping your elbow in tight) slight pull to off balance, then use pad of hand between thumb and fore finger to strip knife and feedback.

2) If no time to put hit int....Off A1 - block with blade of arm and hubud with other arm pushing knife arm up and over.. pull back to off balance, feed back knife under arm pit. to strip the knife use the "cup the boob" (thank you Bob Breen) hand grip, twist the wrist and strip.

3) If too fast to "block" - Off A1 -  use back of lead arm (in right lead) to scoop (inside their knife arm).. scooping down and into them.. scoop round into wrist lock number one (try and pick up the knife hand before it gets too high or they will cut you).. peel out knife in ice pick grip and feed back.

Tips: MOVE, get off line, off set with slip pulls and move away from their free hand which will probably be trying to hit you.

As always LOADS to work and incorporate. thoughts and comments welcome as usual.

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